I halved the sugar and used white instead to brown (brown is precious in my part of the world) and the sweetness was just right. A really good cake.
I had one of my students make this cake. He has very,very little cooking experience. He accidentally mixed the buttermilk with the other wet ingredients, so we just gradually added the flour mix...
My husband made this for Christmas dinner, and his family loved it-even those who don't like gingerbread!