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Newman Miller's exceptional brandade is a million miles from the original European versions featuring strongly flavored dried salt cod. The chef/owner of Harrison-Smith House in historic Bardstown, Kentucky, dishes details on his memorable rendition that makes regular appearances on the ever-changing menu in this short video.

While this traditional potato dish has roots in seaside regions of France, there are also variations in Spanish and Italian cooking. The common thread is dried fish, soaked over a period of days to re-hydrate and purge the salt used in the curing process. In a nod to the farm-to-table mission at this elegant restaurant in the heart of bourbon country, the chef hit the jackpot in landing local wild catfish from Lake Barkley. Smoking it added depth and tempered the fishiness of that bottom-feeder. This Southern-style brandade is served with toast points and quartered radishes for a crunchy contrast to the creamy texture of this best-selling appetizer. If you're looking to do a deeper dive on brandade, check out chef John's video.

Brandade made with smoked catfish at Harrison-Smith House in Bardstown, Kentucky. Photo by Ronnie Kaplan via Harrison-Smith House